‘If one had but a single glance to give the world, one should gaze on Istanbul.’– Alphonse de Lamartine

I am not sure of when Istanbul, Turkiye became the number one place I wanted to visit but it has for years and years. I have spoken about wanting to go or that this summer is when it was going to happen but other cities beckoned. Then, this summer, the opportunity presented itself that I could go for three nights. It was going to be HOT but I decided ‘fuck it, I am going!’ I flew via Wizz Air, a budget Hungarian airliner, and while not my usual EasyJet, it was good. Friendly crew and staff, and experience fell in line with other budget airlines. Plus, more flight options to Istanbul. I stayed at the Celine Hotel, via Expedia, and cannot recommend enough! Location was perfect, less than 10 minute walking distance to the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque (whose minaret’s I could see from my window overlooking the water). I arranged transport from the airport to the hotel via the Celine, the cost was about the same and I didn’t have to worry about it.

I was going to have two full days to explore this massive city. I looked on Get Your Guide for excursions to do. There were so many options-day trips to Troy, Gallipoli, even Cappadocia (which I did think about going to but it was a lot of effort, additional money, and it was very hot so I will be back). I ultimately decided to do the 2 Sides City Tour. Istanbul straddles two continents and I figured this was the best way to see the Asian side. It was a VERY long day. Early morning pick up (which was chaotic) and late night drop off due to the sunset Bosporus cruise. It was also very hot and I was pretty over it by the time we reached the boat. This isn’t to say I regret doing it, I don’t, and it made me realize that the following day, when I was solo, to go back to the hotel to cool off midday!

First up, we went to Camlica Hill, which offers stunning views of the city and the Bosporus Strait. You really get the scope and why Istanbul is the largest city in Europe. We had about 30 minutes to wander around the park, which also had a snack bar. Highly recommend Turkish gatorade, great for hydration and great taste!

Then we went to the Camlica Mosque, the largest mosque in Türkiye and designed by two female architects!!! I am not sure I have ever been in a mosque but I have always admired the architecture and design. In Islam, they do not represent people in their art and so developed arabesques and calligraphy. While I love a stained glass window in old cathedrals, there is something about being surrounded by so much color. It is so welcoming! All mosques require you to have your shoulders, knees, and, for women, their hair covered. I wore a t-shirt, a midi skirt, and bought a cheap scarf on amazon to cover with. While some mosques do require you to be muslim (or parts only accessible if you are), the Camlica Mosque welcomed all visitors. And if you aren’t covered, as some in my group weren’t, they have robes and scarves you can borrow (vs some Catholic churches, like St. Peter’s, also requires coverings and if you don’t, you are not getting in). You also have to remove your shoes, they have cubbies or you can carry. The floor is carpet so not a problem. It was so quiet and so peaceful. I am not the most religious of people so I mostly just explored the art and the views!

Then back to the Bosphorous to visit the Beylerbeyi Palace, a 19th century Ottoman palace. The palace was undergoing extensive renovation while I was there so not as fun and it was HOT inside and quite crowded so I just wandered quickly and sat in the gardens for the rest of our visit. Met some of stray cats that roam the city. Then we went to lunch (it was delicious) and time to explore the neighborhood of Eyup Mosque, the burial site of Ebu Eyüp el-Ansari, who was a companion of Muhammed and credited with bringing Islam to Türkiye. As a lapsed Catholic, I had never heard of him but a Pakistani family was in the group and over lunch they were telling me how excited they were to see his tomb. Non-muslims are allowed to go so I did visit the mosque and tomb. I then ate the first of many pistachio ice creams.

Then our day continued with stops to St. Stephen Bulgarian Orthodox Church, made completely of iron, a spice market, and Pierre Loti Hill, with more views of the city and a gondola ride to the bottom. By dinner, I was pretty beat and ready to go on the boat cruise. I had originally booked a sunset cruise on my last night but one was included with this tour so I did that instead. The boat was so nice and I was able to find a wonderful spot to sit. I ended up chatting with a mother and daughter from Pennsylvania. The sunset was STUNNING. Usually, if there are not a lot of clouds, the sunset tends to not be as colorful but that was not the case. It’s as if Istanbul knew I had always wanted to go, maybe be hot, smell a bit, and tired but that this cruise would be worth it. And it was. A perfect end to a wonderful day.