‘If the Earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital.’ – Napoleon Bonaparte

Day two of Istanbul was something I had been waiting a lifetime to do…visit the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia! Now, my day on the Asian side of the city and sunset Bosporous Cruise was amazing but I was so excited to explore on my own. My hotel, Celine, was less than 10 minute walk to much of my day and also allowed me to take a midday nap/cooling off as it was still quite hot. Since I would be visiting two mosques, I again wore a long skirt (love Madewell for this) and t-shirt with my trusty birkenstocks. At both the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, coverings were available for guests, both men and women, whose clothes do not cover their shoulders and knees (and women, their hair).

Up first, I went to the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, better known as the Blue Mosque due to the intricate blue tile work. It is seen as one of the best representations of Ottoman architecture and completed in 1617. The style of mosque can be seen throughout the city but you’ll know the Blue Mosque as it has six minarets, the only one in the city with this number (and only 5 in Türkiye). This mosque is free to visit. There are separate lines for guests versus Muslim worshipers. It is also closed during certain points during the day for prayer. Due to my hotel’s proximity to it, I could hear the prayer calls from my room!

Walking into the Blue Mosque was a similar feeling as visiting St. Peter’s Basilica for the first time. The sheer size and stunning beauty envelopes you. The main dome is surrounded by eight smaller ones and is even more impressive from the inside. The small windows that surround the walls flood the area with light. I was there on a Monday, just after morning prayer, so it was not too busy. The space is so expansive, I am used to Catholic churches which are filled with pews and sculptures and religious art everywhere, here, just elaborate carpet and tile work that rivals any art you may see in Rome. Just very peaceful.

For the Hagia Sophia, I booked my ticket via Get Your Guide and it also included the Basilica Cistern. I HIGHLY recommend booking a ticket early and pay extra for the skip the line ticket. While you still have to go through security, it is significantly quicker than waiting in the main line. The Hagia Sophia was completed in 537, making it over 700 years older than Westminster Abbey, and an incredible feat of engineering with a central dome (that took more than a few tries to get right). Originally an Eastern Orthodox Church by the Byzantines, it was eventually converted to a mosque following the Ottoman conquest in 1453 and many of the Christian iconography was plastered over. Then, in 1934 as Türkiye firmly established themselves as a secular nation, it became a museum. During a massive restoration, much of the plaster was removed and the Byzantine art restored.However, in 2020, it was converted back to a mosque with a museum on the second floor.

When I first heard it was being converted back to a mosque, I was quite sad for very selfish reasons-I had never been able to see it and was worried it wouldn’t be the same but also recognizing that such a beautiful place of worship should be used as such. I needn’t have worried, though, I was still able to see the Hagia Sophia as it as always intended. Like the Blue Mosque, there is a separate entrance for those who are visiting the mosque for prayer. All other visitors enter along the side and the bottom floor of the mosque is not accessible but still visible from the second story. Some of the Byzantine art which represents things found in the Quran, are is still visible-like the Seraphim Mosaics. Others, which are not visible to the worshippers below, are fully visible to the secular guests and you can get quite close. A couple, notably the Virgin Mary holding Christ view from the floor is covered by sails but you can see it quite clearly from the upper view point (while Christ does appear in the Quran and a key prophet in Islam, the images covered depicted him as the Son of God, which is not an islamic tenant). I was really impressed by what the Turkish government have done. Yes, it would have been cool to see the dome from the floor but the views from above were quite incredible.

While it was not in my Hagia Sophia-Cistern ticket, I highly recommend visiting the Hagia Sophia History Museum and Experience. It was a bit expensive but worth it. The majority of the museum is an immersive, virtual experience. It traces the history of the museum from the earliest church built on the site, through the rise of Constantinople, the fall to at the hands of the Ottomans, and the evolution of the Hagia Sophia becoming a symbol for Christians and Muslims alike. Then, you walk through all of the artifacts-including the original deed, the tale of Empress Theodora, and exquisite Islamic art.

Just over from the Hagia Sophia is the Basilica Cistern. a massive underground water reserve (although the water is limited to allow for visitors). It was constructed by Justinian I and around 1500 years old! The entire area is held up by 338 marble pillars. Visitors are able to walk along a walkway as the lights change color. The reflection off the water is unreal. There are also some ancient statues, including Medusa. If you’ve read Dan Brown’s Inferno, it may seem familiar!

I also wandered, visiting the spice market and the Grand Bazar. It was kind of a lot and hot (I ate a lot of gelato and Fanta orange soda). One thing to note is there is a lot of counterfeit merchandise. Like, a lot, and it is displayed as if it is real versus the sidewalk ‘designer’ bags on Canal Street in New York. The only way you would be able to tell of the bat it was not real is the price. I was conflicted as it is unethical but I was tempted by the white ‘Louis Vuitton’ Neverfull for only a couple hundred dollars versus $2200 in the states. No judgement, you do you but just be aware. Through my wandering, it confirmed what I had come to realize…for such a huge city, it is quite clean and the people are lovely. I never felt unsafe as a solo travel and was never harassed or anything. I really loved it!

As if my day was not busy already, my final stop was to visit the Galata Tower. It was completed in 1348 and, while other building in the area were demolished following the Ottoman conquest, the tower remained. I again bought my ticket via Get Your Guide and, again, highly recommend skipping the line. I went to see the sunset and the line was quite long. I walked from my hotel, just over a mile and much up hill. I don’t regret it but it was a work out. Also, something to note, the elevator will take you up but you have to walk down. It is not hard but if you need something to be more accessible, I would discuss it with the ticket agents. The views from above are stunning. You really get the full scope of the size of the city. Then, as I walked back across the Bosporus, I was able to watch the sun slip behind the horizon.

For my remaining bit of time, I went back to the square between the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque and just sat in the gardens admiring the sheer beauty that surrounded me. I was kind of worried that I had put Istanbul on this pedestal and I would surely be disappointed but I wasn’t. I loved everything about the city and cannot wait to explore more of the city and the country as a whole…but maybe not in July.